"But I didn't drive." A meaningful look left the rest of that story to your imagination.
But her hair was newly tousled, like she was just back from a top-down road trip.
After all that, Donatella struck an unusually sober note when she took her bow in a black pantsuit. So was the eveningwear, slit high on the thigh and fringed with metal, like a hula skirt for a new queen of the stone age. It was refreshing to see the Versace palette shift from icy to organic. Striated colors made you think of the desert sands of Zabriskie Point, or a tequila sunrise, or the deep, warm blue of night skies over Cabo. It wasn't just Stevie Nicks on the soundtrack that cued a West Coast vibe. Some of the standouts: a crystal-encrusted naked dress that called to mind a modern Marilyn Monroe, a slinky black chainmail number with sculptural floral embellishments, and va-va-voom. They demanded concentration, or luck, to avoid the kind of wardrobe malfunction that popped out at least once on today's catwalk. The casual almost-nudity of slashed 'n' laced skirts and slipdresses fitted right in. Yes, there were a few jackets, the oversize kind that are popularly known as boyfriend jackets, but they paled beside the lacy tops-and they were definitely more tops than dresses-which, with their crinkles and slashes and low-slung belts, had the carefree sensuality of festival gear. "Tailoring with a lingerie edge" was the anodyne inspiration claimed by the show notes. Today, she remodeled Versace for the Coachella set. But only if that's tie-dyed too.ĭonatella's been riding a high/low wave since the coincidence of her collection for H&M and the reintroduction of Atelier Versace.
We'll also allow her a toothbrush, a hair dryer, and-because she is a V-Girl, after all-some heeled gladiators and a grunge goddess gown. So it was rather wonderful today to see that woman cram herself into a pickup with a gang of her girlfriends and head for the desert, Queens of the Stone Age blaring, with a shoulder bag of crinkled tie-dyed silks and a pair of jeans. Whatever forces Donatella Versace was fighting to reach this new point of clarity, she won.The Versace woman has always been a creature of consummate self-control, a perfectly polished testament to the craft of the makeup artist, the hairdresser, and the designer who clothes her. It was a triumph which turned boredom into excitement and alienation into a visceral desire to shop. This time, Donatella Versace did show some of the requisite chiffon, fluttery, spilt-to-the-thigh gowns, but the little, curvy, slashed and knotted dresses which came before them were far more interesting, shown as they were on girls striding out on what amounted to decorated clogs. It would not be Versace without an injection of sexiness-a quality which has been so out of fashion recently that many designers appear terrified of it. What came next was: The Versace house print gone wild in punchy green camouflage tailored suits with slouchy boy-cut pants, collaged into knits and sweatshirts and swinging along in the form of backpacks-all (amaze!) walking out on clogs and sporty slides. The opening looks, all legs, with khaki tailored jackets cinched with webbing belts over micro shorts, above vertiginous platforms, were no surprise. Which is surely the main reason she came up with the image of combat which marched through her show-a reflection of the all-too-many wars which are raging now, maybe, but also of the resolution of her battle with herself to throw away self-imposed restraints, and just get on with making Versace relevant.ĭonatella Versace addressed all that by showing a collection which never ditched the beloved character of her family's house, but concentrated mostly on varying shades of daywear, shown on an inclusive cast of characters. I wanted to challenge myself, to do something strong.” “And when I heard it, I was so sure of myself.
“It was made for International Women's Day,” said Donatella Versace, backstage. You'll have to listen to it, but long story short: It's a call to all women to stop listening to our inner demons and outer detractors, and just get rid of everything which stops us from doing what we really want. It was not just an added-on musical theme, but the massively inclusive, confidence-generating “Transition” by Violet and friends. Before we start talking about the way her collection grabbed so many women in parts of themselves they never imagined Versace could reach-even those who like a boyish pant suit and flats-we should refer you to her soundtrack. Just when you're feeling down, and a little bit battered and numbed by fashion in general, and perhaps thinking you've lost sight of the point of it all, along comes Donatella Versace to put it to rights.
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